Day 5 - Streaky Bay
Weather - it can have such an impact on what you do and how you do it. There was no sitting outside the caravan on the beach today (although it was hot eneough for it), no swims or walks, although at least my washing dried quickly. Yes, it was super windy - gusts up to 70km/hr! Thankfully we hadn't put our awning out, and although I had optimistically left our chairs out last night, rain drops at 2am forced me outside to fold them and tuck them away. So the weather completely dicated what we did today.
We enjoyed our sleep in, and slow morning. Did a few domestic jobs before heading into town with Neill and Jude for elevenses at the bakery. Then we thought we'd do some of the scneic drives as we could avoid the wind inside the car.
First up, we did the Cape Bauer Loop Drive. Plenty to stop and see, although the whistling rocks were a highlight.
The cliffs were also quite stunning, we all remarked that you can tell we are reasonably close to the Bunda Cliffs along the Great Australian Bight.
We completed this loop drive by 1pm so headed back to the caravan park for lunch at the in-house Oyster Barn. Great fish and chips, the squid is caught at the end of the jetty near our caravan park (and probably deeper out to sea too!) and there are plenty of local oyster farms! Delicious! After lunch, we decided to do the Westall Loop Drive as the wind by now was up to the 70 km/hr gusts and it was difficult to even open the caravan door! The tractor beach we remembered from our last visit here was on this loop but there are no tractors on the beach anymore! A great campground instead but that's not how we remember it! Some more great cliffs, rocky tracks, lots of wind but the sun was out by now and it was 28C!
Back to the park for a few more jobs, including a load of washing. The novelty of a washing machine in the van is still exciting - I think this was only the third time I have used it! Then we headed into the Streaky Bay Hotel for dinner, as we clearly weren't going to be sitting outside. A delicious meal was had before we headed back to the vans where the wind is slowly easing a bit but it is still quite warm. Ah yes, the weather.....
Day 4 - Iron Knob to Streaky Bay
And now we can slow down - to truly enjoy this place! The method behind the madness that was our 4 big days of driving was to get here, and then take our time travelling around the Eyre Peninsula. So as soon as we arrived into Streaky Bay and parked our vans beachside, we pulled up our chairs on the edge of the beach and just chilled. This is what it's all about!
The day started in Iron Knob as usual and thankfully, the sun was shining and the wind had finally abated. We were on the road just after 9am, but stopped just 89km up the road for fuel and early morning tea underneath this amazing silo art.
Back on the road for some easy driving, stopping for lunch at the surprisingly sizeable town of Wudinna where most of us responsible adults had some lunchtime exercise on the jumping pillow in the park!
We're truly in the desert now, although there are still plenty of farms and many of them are harvesting at this time of year. The beauty of recent rain is also the emergence of Sturt Desrt Peas, these amazing red flowers.
We arrived into Streaky Bay just on 3pm and enjoyed the warmth for the rest of the afternoon. Entree was some lovely fresh seafood from the Oyster Barn kiosk and then Jude cooked us a delicious pasta dinner before we retreated inside as the wind started to pick up, content in the knowledge that we don't have to set an alarm in the morning!
Day 3 - Burra to Iron Knob
Let's face it, with a name like Iron Knob, the town can't be much. 14 years ago, Greg and I camped here in our Jayco Swan and declared it to be one of the worst places ever and who would ever want to come back? Yet, here we are!
The day dawned in Burra much nicer than it was yesterday. It had been very cool overnight so we were happy to keep the gas heater ticking over and we were super comfy - also, because we have a new mattress topper which is just lovely. Up, showered and breakfasted ready for our 9am departure. First stop, the local service station and then the supermarket, as we needed fresh food, having not been allowed to bring fresh fruit and vegetables into South Australia - so we hadn't brought any from Tasmania.
On the road again well before 10am, and past the Midnight Oil house (as pictured on the album cover Diesel and Dust.
The rain started again, and the wind was bitterly cold. We stopped for elevenses in Spalding but retreated to the warmth of our vans for that. Lunch was in Port Germain where we had attempted to get fuel 9 years ago (but the last servo closed 13 years before that) so we revisited for old times sake and had our heated ogglytiddies in Cafe Phoenix in my new airfryer while looking out over the sea. It had warmed up significantly so we were much happier.
Up the road to Port Augusta, with strong winds which are not much fun to drive in. Stopped for fuel again there before heading west, and Greg and I realising we hadn't been west of Port Augusta in 14 years. Neill and Jude on the other hand, were ony out this way a couple of months ago.
We arrived into Iron Knob at a bit after 3pm. It is an old mining town, originally owned by BHP but now a rare place that doesn't fall under any Council jurisdiction and is instead run by the local progress association. There is certainly not much progress here - everything has a very forlorn look, there are many abandoned cars and houses, the streets are in terrible condition, and there certainly doesn't seem to be much going for it. The campground is much the same as when we were here 14 years ago although the post office has now set up out the front and is open between 10:30am and 4pm daily. I suspect they don't get much business.
Anyway, we enjoyed our elevenses in the sun, went for a walk around the sad town, had drinks and nibbles before lighting the campfire, and enjoyed our ricotta gnocchi dinner in front of the fire.
Day 2 - Poocher Swamp to Burra
A big day's driving today, in terrible weather. 400km and we really didn't even get to spend any time with Neill and Jude until dinner tonight!
The day started with clear skies and the sun rising among the gum trees on the banks of Poocher Swamp. All quite lovely, but it wasn't too long after our 9am departure that we started to see evidence of rain. At the service station in Keith, the puddles were gigantic! Fuelled up, we headed north west into big black clouds that opened up, just as the winds started too. Stopping in Coonalpyn for elevenses, the sun came back out so we thought we could enjoy our coffee standing outside but the bitterly cold wind drove us inside. And so was the rest of our day. Wind, rain, sun - sometimes all at the same time! Lunch was in the thriving metropolis of Palmer - again, inside the vans due to rain and wind.
After lunch, we entered the Barossa Valley. Such pretty countryside, and the wines from here are pretty good too! Rows of grapes, green farmlands - some with paddocks already harvested for silage or hay, beautiful flowering rose gardens and of course, the ubiqitous stone buildings this area is famous for. Greg and I were talking about the reason so many old (ruined) stone buildings don't have roofs - they were removed when the farmers/owners left the land because they didn't have to pay as high rates if the property didn't have a "dwelling" - and a house isn't a dwelling if it doesn't have a roof!
We had been planning to stay at World's End campground at Burra Gorge but with the rain still falling and temperatures dropping as low as 8C, Neill's suggestion of camping at the back of the Bon Accord Hotel and having dinner inside seemed a lot more appealing. So we pulled up here in the rain, heated up the vans, and walked into the pub at 6pm. The meal was OK and we enjoyed our catch up chat in our small private dining room. Talking to the owner on the way out - and especially after he heard that Neill and Jude had stayed here back in June - he offered to show us his newly renovated Coach House, now used for accommodation. Built in 1874 at the same time as the pub - all which was to stable horses etc to meet the trains, it had fallen into disrepair. He has done a wonderful job restoring it and adding a modern extension with kitchen, bathroom and laundry. So a very interesting end to our driving day.
On the road again - 2025 caravan trip. Days 0 and 1 - Bangor to Devonport, then Geelong to Bordertown
After postponing our planned trip earlier in the year, we finally hit the road again yesterday. Housesitters in place, arrangements made, leave booked, travelling companions lined up - so we were ready to head off. I was a little anxious as the drive to Devonport would be the biggest drive I had done in the new Ford F-150 towing the newish caravan and it was all still quite different but the car handled well and we arrived early into Devonport so pulled over for afternoon tea before checking in.
It was with great pleasure that I had heard I was getting an upgrade (it's all about who you know) so we boarded and headed up to our deluxe suite which was very comfortable, and sipped our free wine and headed down to dinner with our free vouchers. All while soaking up the comfort of a very calm Bass Strait with this stunning sunset.
Having the best sleep on board we have had for many years, we woke early this morning and were off the ship by 6:38am. Avoiding roadworks and enjoying quiet roads on an early Sunday morning, we headed up the Ballarat Road for a flat spot to stop for breakfast. Fortified, we continued up the road to Beaufort, where we met up with Neill and Jude. Lovely catch ups with the anticipation of a great little trip to come, we hit the road. Petrol and elevenses in Ararat, lunch at Wail, past the Pink Lake. It had been really hot (34C) but we could see the grey clouds as we drove west and sure enough, by the time we got to Bordertown, it was raining and the temperature had dropped to 17C! We are camped at Poochers Swamp and had afternoon tea in our respective vans while it rained outside, and came together for a delicious curry dinner in Cafe Bushtracker.
Flinders Island - don't try to change this place, let this place change you
The weather is wild and woolly as we take off from Bridport
with Flinders Island Aviation. We’re flying into Lady Barron at the southern
end of Flinders Island but conveniently, you can also fly commercially with
Sharp Airlines straight from Launceston Airport to Whitemark.
Our flight is surprisingly smooth, with breathtaking scenery
every step of the way. From the blue seas to the misty mountains, there’s
something different to see in every direction – and you can see it all in this
small airplane as it doesn’t get too high on the short 30 minute flight.
Today we had an unexpected treat – a short stop at Cape
Barren Island to drop a passenger off. Steeped in Aboriginal history and home
to more than 100 members of the palawa community today, it is a strikingly
beautiful place.
Arriving into Lady Barron Airfield, pilot Luke suggests I
bring the hire car over to the plane so I don’t have to wheel my bag over the
wet grass and mud. The keys are in the ignition waiting for me – there is no
crime on Flinders Island, this is the Islander Way. You sure can’t do this at
Tullamarine!
This is not my first trip to the Island, I’ve learnt a thing
or two from the locals on my previous visits, so my first stop is to see Max at
the Lady Barron Store. He unashamedly claims to make the best coffee on the
island – and I think he’s right. Fortified with caffeine, it’s time to hit the
road. We’re literally about to traverse the entire north-south direction of the
island, as our first stop is the Quoin Farm at Killiecrankie. Run by sixth
generation farmers Tom and Jo, their cattle farm is not an uncommon sight
across the lush green fields of the island. Farming has been a successful
undertaking for many generations of farmers.
Next on the itinerary was North East River – standing at the
navigation beacon you are at the northern most point of Flinders Island. Where
the river meets the sea, you can see change in water colour and turbulence –
from calm river waters to frothing seas. It’s a great spot for camping, to soak
up the nature and share a pre dinner drink with a wallaby or a wombat.
Heading back south, another Islander tradition is evident –
the Flinders wave. It’s iconic, the one fingered wave every single driver
shares with every other driver. You fall into the habit very quickly, with a
smile on your face.
Our accommodation for this trip was in a very comfortable
beach house at Emita. There are many short stay options available covering all
budgets, and all across the island. Many will provide a welcome pack of food,
or breakfast provisions. As we unlocked the door to our beach house, the
delicious small of freshy baked bread wafted towards us.
Dining options are limited, but delicious. The shops close
at 5:30pm so it’s always best to plan ahead. If you’re not dining out, stock up
on provisions at either supermarket in Lady Barron or Whitemark. We ate in for
our first night, in front of our cosy woodfire as the westerly wind howled
outside.
The weather is unpredictable on Flinders, although some
would say the wind is predictable. So we rugged up the next morning for a walk
to Lillie’s Beach and through the hauntingly beautiful Wybelenna Chapel. The
chapel and graveyard are the only physical reminders of a very dark time in Tasmanian
Aboriginal history. In 1834, George Augustus Robinson gathered hundreds of
Tasmanian Aboriginals from mainland Tasmania and brought them to Flinders
Island for the so-called purpose of being ‘Civilised and Christianised”. Many
died due to the terrible conditions until the remaining few were transferred
back to Oyster Cove in 1847. The site is now remembered as a site of immense
suffering and injustice for the palawa people.
Today’s visit was the amazing new home at Sawyer’s Bay of
the Furneaux Distillery. Recently relocated from the Wharf at Whitemark, the
new building is perfectly at one with the landscape and features a large and
practical distilling room, a beautifully designed cellar door and tasting room,
all of which opens out onto an amazing deck and lawns which are perfect for
summer events. Today was wet and windy so I can’t tell you how nice it was to
settle in front of the fire talking to Cass and tasting some of the new (and
award winning) whiskeys. Matched with a cheese platter, the drinks and nibbles
went down so easily it was difficult to even get up for a sneak peak through
the bond store, with its amazing store of barrels.
That night we headed down to the RSL and Sports Club for a delicious
meal cooked by Liz and shared with locals. It’s places like this, or the
Interstate Hotel in Whitemark or the Furneaux Tavern in Lady Barron, where you
really connect with the locals and hear their stories.
Time was against us the next morning but we were very keen
to squeeze into a couple more beach visits. The beaches on Finders are not only stunning,
but they are the perfect place to just be yourself. You certainly won’t run
into crowds here. First stop was the stunning Castle Rock, an iconic image for
the island, evoking powerful senses. Then you contrast this with the rolling
green pastures and rugged rocky mountains as you drive south, around the base
of the famous Mt Strzlecki to the slightly more protected beaches of Trousers
Point and Fotheringate Beach. Standing on clean white sand, resting against orange
covered rocks looking up at the magnificent craggy peaks of Strzlecki is awe
inspiring to say the least.
A visit to Flinders Island is not just for the stunning
scenery. This place is deeper than quiet beaches and coastlines, mountains and
mist. These islands have a rich and ark history and an intensely passionate
community that wants to reckon with its past and the right future together. So
while you’re here, connect with this unique community. Let them welcome you –
into their homes, their community, their life. Volunteer some time with WRAPS
and their glass crushing program at Killicrankie, help out with the Local Food
Network, or nurture your caring soul whilst assisting Kate with her rescued
wombats and give back to this place which will give you so much in return.
Don’t try to change this place, Let this place change you.
Days 33 and 34 - Euroa to Geelong, Devonport to home - Friday 31st May & Saturday 1st June
All good things must come to an end - and so here we are, home sweet home.
Yesterday morning in Euroa dawned clear and cold, with the rain all gone from the night before. We had already planned to go out for breakfast with Lisa and Paul so after our traditional cuppa in bed (the last we could do on this trip), we all piled into the Landcruiser and headed into town. Plenty of coffee, more catching up and a yummy breakfast wiled away the morning. We had arranged late checkout so after arranging for Neill and Jude to come for our last elevenses together this trip, we started the packup. Lisa and Paul needed to head home so we waved them off with lots of hugs and thankfulness for their visit.
Ironically, we even enjoyed our elevenses in the sun before it was time to hit the road. Down the Hume, through our old home town of Broadford, stopped for fuel in Romsey at an awkward patrol station that had me doing lots of manoeuvring to get in and out, a snack and toilet stop in Riddells Creek and then into Geelong just before 4pm. We knew we would be too early for check in but planned to park up in the carpark, have afternoon tea in the van (with the heater on as it was cold and windy) and join the queue closer to departure time. We were still on board by 6pm before drinks and dinner. However, the smooth sailing finished once we got out the Heads and we were rocked in our uncomfortable beds for several hours until the wind eased and the seas settled. Disembarked by 6:45am so we drove just around the corner to park up on the beach, put the heater and coffee machine one, and watch the sun rise while we had breakfast.
Home to a very happy dog and cat - we had such an enthusiastic welcome! The new van got parked up, and we had a quiet but relaxing day. We realise all good things must come to an end so we look forward to our next trip in the wonderful new van.
Some people to thank for making this trip as great as it was:
- Neill and Jude, our travelling partners for 2 1/2 weeks of the trip. Such dear friends, with whom we have shared so many trips, and this one was no exception.
- Wayne and Heather, for being such awesome housesitters. We have felt so reassured that our fur kids and home is being looked after well and super blessed to have had Wayne complete so many extra jobs around the farm!
- Lisa and Paul, for making the effort to come and visit for such a short period of time. A real pity about the rain but we made it work and we enjoyed time together while also being able to show off the new van!
- people from our Sunlandian family who helped out at various stages of the journey.
- Andrew and Courtney for hosting us
- Julie and Garry for the birthday catch up
- Clare and Justin and the girls for allowing us to gatecrash Clare's birthday dinner
