Gismo Queen and her King

Flinders Island - don't try to change this place, let this place change you

The weather is wild and woolly as we take off from Bridport with Flinders Island Aviation. We’re flying into Lady Barron at the southern end of Flinders Island but conveniently, you can also fly commercially with Sharp Airlines straight from Launceston Airport to Whitemark.

Our flight is surprisingly smooth, with breathtaking scenery every step of the way. From the blue seas to the misty mountains, there’s something different to see in every direction – and you can see it all in this small airplane as it doesn’t get too high on the short 30 minute flight.

Today we had an unexpected treat – a short stop at Cape Barren Island to drop a passenger off. Steeped in Aboriginal history and home to more than 100 members of the palawa community today, it is a strikingly beautiful place.

Arriving into Lady Barron Airfield, pilot Luke suggests I bring the hire car over to the plane so I don’t have to wheel my bag over the wet grass and mud. The keys are in the ignition waiting for me – there is no crime on Flinders Island, this is the Islander Way. You sure can’t do this at Tullamarine!

This is not my first trip to the Island, I’ve learnt a thing or two from the locals on my previous visits, so my first stop is to see Max at the Lady Barron Store. He unashamedly claims to make the best coffee on the island – and I think he’s right. Fortified with caffeine, it’s time to hit the road. We’re literally about to traverse the entire north-south direction of the island, as our first stop is the Quoin Farm at Killiecrankie. Run by sixth generation farmers Tom and Jo, their cattle farm is not an uncommon sight across the lush green fields of the island. Farming has been a successful undertaking for many generations of farmers.

Next on the itinerary was North East River – standing at the navigation beacon you are at the northern most point of Flinders Island. Where the river meets the sea, you can see change in water colour and turbulence – from calm river waters to frothing seas. It’s a great spot for camping, to soak up the nature and share a pre dinner drink with a wallaby or a wombat.

Heading back south, another Islander tradition is evident – the Flinders wave. It’s iconic, the one fingered wave every single driver shares with every other driver. You fall into the habit very quickly, with a smile on your face.

Our accommodation for this trip was in a very comfortable beach house at Emita. There are many short stay options available covering all budgets, and all across the island. Many will provide a welcome pack of food, or breakfast provisions. As we unlocked the door to our beach house, the delicious small of freshy baked bread wafted towards us.

Dining options are limited, but delicious. The shops close at 5:30pm so it’s always best to plan ahead. If you’re not dining out, stock up on provisions at either supermarket in Lady Barron or Whitemark. We ate in for our first night, in front of our cosy woodfire as the westerly wind howled outside.

The weather is unpredictable on Flinders, although some would say the wind is predictable. So we rugged up the next morning for a walk to Lillie’s Beach and through the hauntingly beautiful Wybelenna Chapel. The chapel and graveyard are the only physical reminders of a very dark time in Tasmanian Aboriginal history. In 1834, George Augustus Robinson gathered hundreds of Tasmanian Aboriginals from mainland Tasmania and brought them to Flinders Island for the so-called purpose of being ‘Civilised and Christianised”. Many died due to the terrible conditions until the remaining few were transferred back to Oyster Cove in 1847. The site is now remembered as a site of immense suffering and injustice for the palawa people.

Today’s visit was the amazing new home at Sawyer’s Bay of the Furneaux Distillery. Recently relocated from the Wharf at Whitemark, the new building is perfectly at one with the landscape and features a large and practical distilling room, a beautifully designed cellar door and tasting room, all of which opens out onto an amazing deck and lawns which are perfect for summer events. Today was wet and windy so I can’t tell you how nice it was to settle in front of the fire talking to Cass and tasting some of the new (and award winning) whiskeys. Matched with a cheese platter, the drinks and nibbles went down so easily it was difficult to even get up for a sneak peak through the bond store, with its amazing store of barrels.

That night we headed down to the RSL and Sports Club for a delicious meal cooked by Liz and shared with locals. It’s places like this, or the Interstate Hotel in Whitemark or the Furneaux Tavern in Lady Barron, where you really connect with the locals and hear their stories.

Time was against us the next morning but we were very keen to squeeze into a couple more beach visits.  The beaches on Finders are not only stunning, but they are the perfect place to just be yourself. You certainly won’t run into crowds here. First stop was the stunning Castle Rock, an iconic image for the island, evoking powerful senses. Then you contrast this with the rolling green pastures and rugged rocky mountains as you drive south, around the base of the famous Mt Strzlecki to the slightly more protected beaches of Trousers Point and Fotheringate Beach. Standing on clean white sand, resting against orange covered rocks looking up at the magnificent craggy peaks of Strzlecki is awe inspiring to say the least.

A visit to Flinders Island is not just for the stunning scenery. This place is deeper than quiet beaches and coastlines, mountains and mist. These islands have a rich and ark history and an intensely passionate community that wants to reckon with its past and the right future together. So while you’re here, connect with this unique community. Let them welcome you – into their homes, their community, their life. Volunteer some time with WRAPS and their glass crushing program at Killicrankie, help out with the Local Food Network, or nurture your caring soul whilst assisting Kate with her rescued wombats and give back to this place which will give you so much in return.

Don’t try to change this place, Let this place change you.

posted by Tracey @ 4:01 pm