Gismo Queen and her King

Wrap Up

Words can't really describe the experience we have had. In a lot of ways, this would not have been the way we would have chosen to travel these parts of Australia but our experiences of last year have taught us that you can't wait to do things, because none of us know what life holds in store. So we made the most of this experience and it was indeed amazing.

Some statistics:

• 12,860 kilometres travelled
• 38 different campsites
• Highest temperature experienced = 34C
• Lowest temperature experienced = -4C

Our favourite places:

• Mount Surprise
• Lorella Springs Station
• Litchfield National Park
• Daly Waters Pub for the "beef and barra"

Some thanks:

• Our housesitters Liz and Mark for looking after our animals so well
• Mum/Myra for picking up the slack and all the extras
• Lisa, Paul, Harry and Kobi for a sensational six weeks travelling together
• Natalie and Hayden for their time in Darwin but especially for travelling down to Daly Waters to help celebrate Greg's birthday
• Neill and Jude for their advice, our practice run and the loan of the sat phone
• Doug and Ruth for their hospitality in Canberra

So although we say that words can't really describe the experience, the following poem tries hard. Settle in before you read it, as it is quite long, but hopefully quite catchy.


Towing the caravan for 9 weeks of play
Our first camp was under a tree
On the banks of the Murrumbidgee

A boring free camp but we didn't care
Into Queensland and a very pretty weir
Watching the pelicans while drinking beer

And on the campfire a coffee to brew
Through the red dirt to country Longreach
In the outback not near any beach

Down into the Gorge before it got dark
The road turned bad and really quite bumpy
Our shower got broken and we got grumpy

Brought back smiles and stopped our cries
In the lava tubes we stood
Before our pizza was cooked on wood

The weather was hot so this made us cool
The Savannah Way was all rock and dirt
In Burketown we watched the artesian spurt

Had us swimming in a lovely blue cove
Touring through the cliffs and dust
We had a view that was upper crust

Meant the beers at KFC were a must
A much easier drive out to Hells Gate
For our last night in this sunny state

300k of dirt was a long way to go
In Borroloola we finally came clear
But alas were unable to buy any beer

A station and camp fit for kings
A swim and flight up in a chopper
No doors but we were belted good and proper

Tomato Island where the fishing was grand
Out of the bush on the Stuart Highway
Meeting with friends says hooray

The crocs in the gorge didn’t give a damn
Up the highway to a little city
Darwin was friendly and really quite pretty

The heat and the mozzies were revealed
Swimming in rock pools was swell
We could have stayed for a longer spell

Fishermen in with the crocs made us shiver
Finally we arrived in the famous Kakadu
Our first camp was at the lovely Jabiru

The crocs and spear throwing were certainly grand
Down to Cooinda and a hike through canyon walls
Came out at the magic Jim Jim Falls

The weather would soon turn cool and grim
Mataranka had markets and thermal pools
The water was almost the colour of jewels

Beef and Barra was the yummy grub
Breakfast with friends before Banka Station
Cake and campfire at this great location

The campfire and fireworks was really good
Down the road to a town like Alice
The Big4 was as big as a palace

Near the Todd River that doesn’t flow
A big drive to King’s Canyon
Paul, Harry and Tracey were walking companions

Sunset made the colours go all shades of red
The days were sunny but the nights really cold
Pizza, red wine and campfire were gold

For the opal that is a precious stone
Underground we ate and toured
The dingo fence had them secured

Gaining confidence with the Prado reins
Finally in Port Augusta we came
Caching up with family was the aim

Our six weeks travel has been a ball
More plains east to the Silver City
Up north to camp in a town that is bitty

We took it easy and some old tracks
Lunch at the pub followed by sunset
Across the Mundi plains a view to beget

Through towns that saw long ago glory
To Canberra to catch up with family
Play time with kids and a shopping spree

With plenty of ice and foggy gloom
Across to Rutherglen following the vines
We ate good pies and bought more wine
 
Our last night was on the banks of the Murray
So close to home but there was no hurry
Home to the pets after this long haul
In all nine weeks we’ve had a ball.

posted by Tracey @ 9:31 pm 1 comments

Day 61 - Yarrawonga to home

A cool morning greeted us on the banks of the Murray this morning, including a light layer of ice on the car. But the sun was rising over the weir, the birds were chirping and it looked to be a beautiful morning.

After breakfast and clean up, we took the opportunity to enjoy a final cuppa under our awning, looking out over the river in the sunshine. We did this every morning up north when the mornings were warmer so it seemed fitting to do this on our last morning.

An easy drive south, including a stop for lunch in Euroa, had us turning into our driveway at 1:30pm. No dog to be seen, so we drove in. As soon as we turned around the back of the house and stopped, he looked up - and bounded over. He was so happy to see us! He wouldn't let us out of his sight as we did a little bit of unpacking. The cat was fluffier than I remembered and also seems happy to see us.
Other than happy fur kids (and feather kids), it is weird to be home. And cold! Maybe it will be less weird after we have slept in our big bed.

Tomorrow, we will do a wrap up of this trip, and that will be the final blog entry for this chapter.

posted by Tracey @ 8:56 pm 0 comments

Day 60 - Lake Hume to Yarrawonga

Although we have had quite a few sub zero nighttime temperatures to date, this was our first true frost - because there was moisture in the air. There was a thick layer of ice on the car and caravan this morning. It was actually quite beautiful. There was also a bit of fog over the lake so I rugged up and wandered down to the water's edge to take some photos. Nature at it's best.
So we certainly didn't hurry over pack up this morning which meant it was well after 11am before we were on the road. We took the scenic route to Albury, including past the Ettamogah Pub. It's currently closed but undergoing some renovations so hopefully will be open soon.
After passing through Albury and Wodonga, we headed for Rutherglen, where we spent a very pleasant afternoon in glorious sunshine. Our first stop was lunch at Parker's Pies. We discovered this award winning pie bakery about 12 years ago when I was staying up here one summer with friends and apart from doing the wineries, Greg and I also enjoyed their pies. So we again enjoyed pies for lunch and stocked up the freezer with a few to-go. A lovely walk through the main street, where Greg also bought his port barrel several years ago. We then headed out to one of my favourite wineries. Not one of the pretentious or fancy wineries, but a good old fashioned, family business. So much so that they have a sign inside that says "we are so committed to providing old fashioned customer service that we don't offer fancy buildings, bottles or bullshit". I couldn't agree more. I stocked up on wine which the gentleman graciously carried out to the caravan for me.

We eventually headed further west on the Murray Valley Highway after deciding Yarrawonga would be a pleasant spot for our last night. Given we are only 189 kilometres from home, this will be our last night on the road. This wonderful journey has to come to an end and even though we still have a few days up our sleeve, when the thought of home gets into your head, it's probably better to bite the bullet and just do it. Besides, we are very anxious to see our dear puppy dog.

Tonight's camp site was all set up in time for afternoon tea, which we enjoyed on the banks of the Murray River in the sunshine, with pelicans and kookaburras for company - the latter being very friendly and less than a metre from our feet.
A little later, the sun set over the river in front of us, and on our amazing trip.

May we be blessed with 189 more kilometres of safe travels and an affectionate welcome by our fur kids. It is with mixed emotions that we set for home.

posted by Tracey @ 9:27 pm 1 comments

Day 59 - Canberra to Bowna (Lake Hume)

Just as we were stretching to awaken this morning, we heard the dulcet tones of our nephew yell out "Seeya Tracey and Greg" as he walked past the caravan to kinder! That made us smile first thing in the morning :-)

We breakfasted and showered and entertained Greg's mum for morning tea in the van as the house was empty with all other Malletts at work and kinder/daycare. We packed up around her and were on the road shortly thereafter. Greg's mum will be at our place later in the week so it's not as if we won't be seeing her soon.

We drove out of Canberra easily enough  - realising as we did so that we have visited yet another state/territory of our fine country on this trip (that's 5 out of the 7!) and stopped in Yass again for the dump point (well aware that as we head further south, the abundance of dump points will disappear. Victoria really needs to take a leaf out of Queensland/Northern Territory's well planned dump point network. Although I could write a book about the different kinds we have seen, and strange places some of them are in!!).

We stopped in Gundagai for lunch and south of Holbrook, turned off the Hume towards Bowna. Only 10 kilometres from the freeway, and on the banks of Lake Hume, we found this oasis - the Great Aussie Caravan Park. Most people would never even see the sign to here from the Hume and we only found the Park via Wikicamps, but even though it seems to be in the middle of nowhere, it must be truly abuzz in summer. At the moment, it is lovely and peaceful in winter, with still beautiful scenery over the lake.
Unfortunately, the lake is only at 57% capacity, which is why the water's edge was so far out. We got ourselves an ensuite site (some might think that is odd given we have a full bathroom in our caravan, but there are a couple of advantages - the first being looooong hot showers, and the second in this case, being a concrete driveway/slab which is important given how wet it had been here (not that that has helped the lake's levels - yet!)). I was very proud of myself for reversing in quite easily - probably the first time I haven't had a guide to help me! Yay me!

After setting up, went for a bit of a walk down the lake and found lots of bird life, including my favourites - pelicans!
We've now settled in for a cosy night inside the van with the heater blazing and a glass of red wine! Got to enjoy it while we still can!

posted by Tracey @ 8:49 pm 1 comments

Day 58 - Canberra

We're back in the below zero nighttime temperatures...so needless to say there's no hurry to get up too early. We had a quiet morning in the van lingering over coffee and breakfast before we joined the family inside the house.

Some pottering in the garden, playing with the kids, eating home grown mandarins - and all before lunch!

After lunch, I wanted to indulge in some retail therapy (given this is the first time we have been in a truly civilised city for a couple of months now) and my sister-in-law was keen to oblige. Turns out she did more shopping than I did but we had a pleasant afternoon at the shops, out for afternoon tea and buying some special presents. Greg hung out at home with his mother, brother and niece and nephew. Apparently there was some active playing undertaken.

Home for a beautiful roast dinner followed up dessert we bought at the delicious Italian cafe Ruth and I had afternoon tea in. The heartstrings were tugged at kids bedtime when Xavier queried "do you have to go home tomorrow?" - but that could also be because he wanted to sleep in the caravan one night!

A lovely time catching up with the family.

posted by Tracey @ 10:17 pm 0 comments

Day 57 - West Wyalong to Canberra

Greg was enjoying his breakfast in bed this morning (one of the definite advantages of life in a caravan) when I ducked outside to visit the amenities and discovered most of the grey nomads also parked in the drive through sites with us were already gone. West Wyalong is a popular stopping spot for the grey nomads on their way to Queensland from Victoria. Anyway, we took our time and were on the road just after 10am.

We headed down the Goldfields Way towards Temora, and then east on Burley Griffin Way to Harden. We stopped here for a break and lunch and then also in Yass to check out their facilities before arriving at our destination at about 3pm.

This caravan park is pretty good. The owners greeted us with hugs and kisses, the power and water comes at the right price and we even had dinner provided. Yep, we can highly recommend Chez Mallett in Wanniassa. Otherwise known as Greg's brother's place. Greg's mother also arrived so it's been a bit of a family reunion. When we were revaluating our travel plans earlier in the week - and knowing that his mum was leaving her sister's in Queensland - Greg suggested we come over here so we did.

The rest of the afternoon was about catching up, playing with the kids and more. Family time.

posted by Tracey @ 10:28 pm 0 comments

Day 56 - Ivanhoe to West Wyalong

A quiet, cool morning in Ivanhoe greeted us when we awoke. We took our time over showers and breakfast and were on the road by 10am. The 210km to Hay was flat, flat, flat. You'd think we'd be used to desert driving by now but I did comment to Greg at one point that it was unnerving driving into nothing - flat, endless plains either side of the road with the only vertical break being the many emus.
There was so little traffic on this section of the Cobb Highway so no wonder the emus, kangaroos and a herd of cattle took over the road as their own. The section of this highway between Deniliquin and Wilcannia is known as the Long Paddock (as the cattle we saw were in) and they have constructed information boards with interesting stories about drovers, farmers, drivers etc along the way. These were the most interesting breaks enroute.

We arrived in Hay at lunchtime and needed fuel for both the car and us. Hay is a busy farming town, and close to town, the scenery became a lot more civilised with trees and smaller farms. But, after lunch, on the Mid Western Highway heading east the flat, treeless plains were back. However, the road was better and the wind finally behind us so the driving was much easier. We passed through several smaller towns and eventually green rolling hills and trees became the normal scenery.

When the Mid Western Highway intersected the Kidman Way at the small town of Goolgowi, we realised we had completed a full circle. We were heading north up the Kidman Way 53 days ago and would have gone through this roundabout then.

Our destination of West Wyalong was reached before 5pm so we pulled into the caravan park and had the heater and coffee machine on faster than you could ask "are we there yet?" Dinner  and TV in the van after a big day of driving.

posted by Tracey @ 9:07 pm 1 comments

Day 55 - Silverton to Ivanhoe (via Broken Hill and Wilcannia)

So, we really were leaving this morning. Up, packed and on the road by 9:15am. Our few stops in Broken Hill took much longer than we expected (supermarket, dump point at Visitor Information Centre, servo) so it was 11:30am before we were on the Barrier Highway heading north-east.

We have previously taken every other road out of Broken Hill so we decided to save the Menindee Lakes for a warmer time (and make a trip of it proper) and instead headed for Wilcannia, another mining town 200 kilometres away. The road was straight, flat, with desert either side so we trundled on for kilometre after kilometre. We stopped for lunch at a beautiful rest area (Lisa, you would have been impressed - toilet, playground, free BBQ) and were joined for lunch by a couple of emus! We arrived in Wilcannia a little while later and were dismayed to see that time has not been as kind to Wilcannia as it has been to Broken Hill. Very run down and derelict, although a couple of nice old buildings. We kept going, aiming for Ivanhoe.

The Cobb Highway turns south about 20km out of Wilcannia and the majority of the 166 km to Ivanhoe was dirt. However, we can safely say this was the best dirt road we have travelled on during this entire trip. I know it's a highway and all, but those northern roads could learn a lesson or two from the road authorities down here. A few ruts but for the most part, a really good run. And such compacted dirt that for the most part, we caused very little dust (which was good, as I hadn't taped the van).

However, it was still 5pm (especially given that we lost that elusive half an hour today - a way down the Barrier Highway we saw the time zone sign telling us to add 30 minutes) before we arrived in Ivanhoe. A small town, but looking a little more industrious that Wilcannia, we pulled over to search for a free camp but lo and behold, there are no such places up here. Never fear, the Ivanhoe Servo and Caravan Park (now, doesn't that conjure up pleasant images?!) prevailed and we met Wendy the proprietor, who only recently took over, and she set us up for the night.

It's a pretty cool and windy night but we are tucked up snugly in our van and so caught up on TV via the internet and ate dinner. It's caravanning in the 21st century!

posted by Tracey @ 9:32 pm 0 comments

Day 54 - Silverton

We were going to leave today....honestly....but the morning seemed to disappear before us and even though I put the toaster away, that was the only packing that took place so we stayed.

The sun was shining and blue skies greeted us this morning which may have contributed to the decision - this the Silverton we know and love. A morning of housekeeping (laundry and washing the caravan floors) before we walked into Silverton to have lunch at the Silverton Pub.
We have always stopped for a drink here on our previous visits and the ambience is great but we have never eaten here, now we know why. My parma was OK but Greg's pie appeared to be microwaved - I guess it is hard to get good cooks out here.

On our way back, we did part of the Heritage Walk Trail, including detouring via the local fire station to check out their (old) appliances. Back at our van, we had afternoon tea in the sun and finished reading a book we bought yesterday on the history of this park.

The sun was sinking fast and I wanted to capture the sunset over the Mundi Mundi Plains so we jumped in the car and headed out to the lookout, 5km past Silverton. We made it just in time.

Another roaring campfire and we even got to enjoy all of this one as the clear skies turned into a starry night and no raindrops dampened our night. A very relaxing day.

posted by Tracey @ 9:33 pm 1 comments

Day 53 - Silverton/Broken Hill

Oh, what a relaxing day. Sometimes, you just need days like this on holidays....when the frenetic pace of travelling takes its toll......ok, I'm guessing I have lost most of you there. We can feel the sympathy from here.

We had a lovely sleep in before rising for a big fry up breakfast. There was still the odd drop of rain so instead of getting the fire going again, or setting up the gas cooker, I used one of the new BBQs installed here since we were last here. We lolled around over coffee until it was afternoon, then set off into Broken Hill. We haven't really planned the next stage of our trip, other than a vague idea that we'd like to do the Menindee Lakes (150km south of here). We tried to get there two years ago but the road was a bit ordinary for the Kia (work car). However, the weather is putting us off going there for this trip too so we might just head east.....and who knows where we'll end up?!

So we went to the Visitor Information Centre in Broken Hill, took advantage of the better internet connection and downloaded a few more books and got some information for our travels. We then visited the shops and came back to Silverton. Not much had changed here, although we read up on some more of the history. The information boards around town do a very good job of describing what the ruins are/what used to be on site, or what a remaining building used to be.
As you can see from the vast open spaces between remaining buildings, there is a lot missing. Many private houses were deconstructed and moved to Broken Hill when the people left. There's still a couple of "renovator's delights" though!
The few rain drops we've had hasn't been anything significant. Which is good seeing as we cross the Umberumberka Creek to get here - and it's been freshly graded! That amused us greatly - that they grade the creek bed!
Although we had some sunshine this afternoon - and I was hoping it would last to sunset so we could view the sunset over the Mundi Mundi Plains (a bit of a tradition in this part of the world), it was too cloudy so we settled in around the freshly instigated campfire and I put a beef stroganoff into the campoven.

Our romantic dinner in front of the campfire had to be moved back a bit as the intermittent rain drops persisted. Some of you may notice the "fake" heat at Greg's feet as we dined under our awning.

posted by Tracey @ 9:40 pm 1 comments

Day 52 - Port Augusta to Silverton

Today was a trip down memory lane. And that trip finds us back in a place we are fond of - Penrose Park at Silverton.

We didn't move too fast this morning so we were still having breakfast when  a knock on the door revealed the Thomas family all lined up ready to say farewell as they begin the journey home. It's been an awesome time travelling with them but they have to get home, while we still have at least 10 days up our sleeve. Hugs and kisses all round as we waved them off - ironic really, after we waved them off from our house on the first day of their trip, nearly 4 months ago!

We packed up and were on the road by 10am. The first left turn had us skirting the Mount Remarkable National Park and immediately the difference in countryside was obvious. On this drive there was hills and green grass and trees and farms - all very different from what we have seen over the last many weeks! But that didn't last too long because as soon as we turned onto the Barrier Highway (Silver City Highway), the dirt turned red again, the trees disappeared, it got very flat and the road became dead straight again.

We stopped for lunch in Yunta, because we know the roadhouse serves a good meal. We have traversed this highway a few times now, the first being three years ago when we visited the Flinders Ranges, and we travelled via Mildura and Broken Hill. This was when we discovered Penrose Park in Silverton. This tiny town - that is just holding off becoming a ruin - 22km north west of Broken Hill was at one time the biggest silver mining town in Australia. These days, it is mostly ruins although the few remaining building have been preserved and the pub has become iconic in many Australian films. The campground was once the Sunday playground for the well-to-do from Broken Hill who would come out by by train each Sunday and play cricket or hold a fair or play other games and have a picnic lunch. It was quite the playground. It too has fallen into disrepair but it held together by a committee of management, not much money and an on-site caretaker. We like the rustic nature of the place and the history which is why we fell in love with it three years ago, so much so that we came back here the year after that on our return journey from the Nullabor.

Three years ago, at Yunta we turned north up a dirt road towards a ruined town called Waukaringa, because we had heard you could camp there. It was actually too spooky to camp there as there was not even any animals left. We didn't bother doing the return journey today either.

It was late afternoon by the time we pulled in here. Our favourite campsite was taken (admittedly, there are the most people camping here we have ever seen - about 7 sites) but we found another one and were quickly set up with the campfire blazing.

A bit of reminiscing over the campfire, with red wine, pasta for dinner and marshmallows toasted afterwards (although I do miss my marshmallow buddy Harry) and then a few rain drops started to fall. Quite ironic really, given how dry this place is (the campground doesn't have water connection for your caravan) so we have moved inside to curl up in the warmth and listen to raindrops on our roof - a very novel sound for us.

posted by Tracey @ 8:54 pm 0 comments

Day 51 - Coober Pedy to Port Augusta

Today was all about driving. Coober Pedy to Port Augusta is 538 kilometres, and that was the biggest towing drive I have ever done. But we did it in about 7 hours, including two stops - even at my "grey nomad" speed as Paul likes to describe it.

A cold, cloudy morning in Coober Pedy this morning. We commented that we haven't seen cloud at all on this trip. We suspect that is about to well and truly end. We packed up and were on the road before 9am, although Lisa and Paul left before us (so they could go faster!) because Harrison wanted to see the Cultural Centre in Port Augusta and they needed time to do that.

Today's drive involved very little scenery to describe to Greg. And when I say very little, I mean very little. I think I could count the number of trees I saw on my fingers. Leaving Coober Pedy, it was understandable as we knew the annual rainfall was so low and mining obliterated the landscape. But it went on like that for hundreds of kilometres! We stopped in Glendambo for an early lunch 240km down the road. After that, the landscape became even more moon like (if that was possible). For a short time, the landscape offered relief with a couple of lakes. One was obviously freshwater, while the other was salt.
But after that, it was back to very flat, treeless plains for as far as the eye could see. Even the emus stood out like sore thimbs because they were so much taller than the landscape. Good thing Greg and I had a rattling good book to listen to!

We set up in our caravan park in Port Augusta (the same one Greg and I stayed in two years ago) and as this was our last night of travelling together with Lisa and Paul and family, we went out to a local bistro for dinner to mark the occasion. From a question Greg asked Lisa more than six months ago ("how would you feel if we gate crashed part of your caravan trip?!"), we have spent the past month together and it's been amazing. We spent the night reminiscing about our time together, the things we've seen and done, our favourite places and times. Lisa and I have done lots of travelling together, and Lisa, Paul and I have done quite a few trips too, but this was such a major trip, with our loved ones, and that has made it very special.

We then had the pleasure of catching up with a long lost cousin of Greg's. Through the wonders of facebook, and some titbits of family knowledge, Greg thought Belinda was living in Alice Springs so we made plans to catch up there. But, it turned out she and her husband had moved to Port Augusta so given that was on our route anyway, we made plans for here and Belinda joined us at the bistro as we finished our meal with Lisa and Paul. Family catch up finished a lovely night of reminiscing and enjoying company.

posted by Tracey @ 11:14 pm 0 comments

Day 50 - Coober Pedy

A lovely lazy morning around the caravans, including pancakes cooked next door and breakfast in the sun. You really feel like you're on holidays at times like this!

Having studied the offerings of Coober Pedy as described by the Visitor Information Centre, we had narrowed down our activities to the Unamoona museum, the Breakaways drive and a visit to a reputable opal shop. We headed straight to the Visitor Information Centre to buy our pass for the Breakaways Drive (through Aboriginal land) - (a whole $2.20 per adult), then to Unamoona. We worked our way through the underground museum, which was very good, until we got to the shop and discovered you couldn't do anymore unless you were on a tour. The timing of this changed our plans so via the bakery for a pie, we met up with Lisa and Paul and headed out to the Breakaways drive. This is a 70km round trip to the north and east of Coober Pedy, through a range of colourful low hills which have broken away from the Stuart Range, hence their name “The Breakaways”.  We stopped at two lookout points which highlighted the open spaces and colourful environment, leaving an impression of the long gone inland sea that our early explorers dreamt of.

Further along, these white and brown mound are called the “Castle” or “Salt & Pepper” by the white people, but "Two Dogs" by the local aboriginal people.

The landscape was truly amazing, like nothing else we have seen. The colours were so different, and the lack of plantlife adds a whole new dimension. Many movies have been filmed out here, especially outer space movies because in places, it does look very like a moonscape. Further along the loop road, we came upon the dog (dingo) fence. This 2m high wire barrier stretches for over 5,300km across three States, to protect the sheep country in the south from the dingo.
Back in town, I needed a coffee so we went in search of an underground cafe. We found one that was also a digeridoo shop/gallery and of course, they sold opals as well! We had an excellent cup of coffee, a funny chat with the Yugoslavian man serving who came to Australia in 1974 and has been in Coober Pedy for all bar two days since! He played a digeridoo for us and sold us an opal for me to get set onto a ring I already have.

We then went back to Unamoona for the tour. First we watched a movie about the history of opal, then went on a tour of an undergound house, then into the mine (which is no longer worked, given it is in the middle of town). It was interesting, although elements of it had been covered in last night's tour and perhaps done better. However, unlike in last night's mine, this one still had some veins of opal left. Given we had just purchased one, it was reassuring to see original opal in the ground!
I then happened to see an opal charm to suit my bracelet which my darling husband also let me buy. My justification was that the charm is to commemorate this trip and it is my birthstone!

Back to the caravan for a yummy pasta dinner which Lisa cooked and then we had apple and apricot pie - cooked in Lisa's oven with apples all the way from Broadford (grown, cooked and frozen in Broadford (Thanks, Mum!) then transported half way around Australia!). Tomorrow is our last full day with Lisa and family and we have a huge day of driving to Port Augusta.

posted by Tracey @ 9:44 pm 0 comments

Day 49 - Agnes Creek to Coober Pedy

There's times when our volunteer firefighter training comes in handy, but car accidents would have to be the most unfortunate application of skills.

Today travelling south on the Stuart Highway, we were the fourth and fifth vehicles on scene from our side of a mini-bus (9 seater) rollover. We were the only ones with a satellite phone so it came to me to call for help. I approached the scene to get the facts and found eight victims strewn across the road, with two nurses providing some assistance and others trying to reassure some of the walking wounded. I explained to the nurses that I was a volunteer firefighter and that I was calling for help. I eventually got through to the police, gave the location and details and then got one of the nurses to speak to the dispatcher, as there was already one fatality by that stage and a second very likely. It was horrible and no matter how many accidents I have attended, it is never any easier. There was very little any of us could do (although fair play to the nurses who were doing an excellent job) and being so remote, it was over an hour before any emergency services arrived on scene - but as any good firie will appreciate, the CFS (South Australian Country Fire Service) were the first on scene.

Lisa made us tea and coffee and kept the kids occupied. Once police arrived on scene, they were able to control traffic and diverted us off the road onto a chicken track that got us around the scene.

Several hours later than planned, we arrived in Coober Pedy. We are staying just outside town in an old opal mine, which has underground camping areas, although unfortunately not big enough for caravans! However, it is a good place and we were quickly set up before heading into town to check out things. Coober Pedy is renowned for it's underground everything - homes, businesses and apparently campgrounds! Primarily it is an opal mining town.
You may notice the extreme lack of vegetation. Not only is every surface in town mined, but there is no topsoil and so little rain that plants don't grow well. The average annual rainfall is just 175mm. They have a desalination plant for the town's water, and for us tourists, a water bowser - just like a petrol bowser! But a whole lot cheaper at 20c per 30 litres!!

We headed back to the campground for dinner (pumpkin soup and garlic bread) before our 7pm mine tour. The guy who runs this campground bought the property to try mining but quickly realised he wasn't going to make money that way so he converted it to a campground! But every night he does tours of the old mine and it was very interesting.

Tomorrow we're off to find me some opals - but probably the easy way - from a shop!

posted by Tracey @ 9:35 pm 2 comments

Day 48 - Yulara to Agnes Creek rest area (on Stuart Highway)

There was no hurry this morning as we had no specific destination and we knew there wasn't going to be much to see along the way so we tried to wait for the morning to warm up before departing. We also had to fill with water as we hadn't had a site with water for the last few days. So it was 10:30am before we were on the road, with the first stop being 240km down the road at the intersection of the Stuart Highway, at Erlunda. We filled up with fuel and then lunch, before heading down the road.

We arrived at the South Australian border (our fifth state/territory on this trip!) and had planned to stay at the rest area here but it was busy so we kept going.

A further 50km down the road we found a pleasant roadside stop with firepits so we pulled in and soon had the kettle on. Not long after that, the campfire was started. I went to chat to some people with a van like we want (yes, I know this one isn't very old, but the Savannah Way has proven that we need a better van for the kind of travels that we want to do) and when I came back, Paul had dragged up a lovely red gum limb. So I got the chainsaw out and we soon had a great store of firewood to keep us warm all night. Lisa made fantastic pizzas which we washed down with red wine in front of the very warm fire. The night did indeed get very cold (we had hot water bottles and the third doona - we were toasty) but it was very ambient in front of the campfire.

posted by Tracey @ 6:35 pm 0 comments

Day 47 - Yulara (Uluru)

What glorious weather we have had here in Yulara. Warm sunny days (mostly 23-24C although today was a bit cooler), not a cloud in the sky, and even the nights aren't so bad. We even turned the heater off last night! We really aren't looking forward to travelling further south though as we heard about the wild and woolly weather in South Australia and Victoria today.

Not too much of a sleep in this morning as we wanted to do the Mala walk around part of the base of Uluru this morning. So we were there ready and waiting by 10am along with twenty zillion other people, but there were a couple of rangers so we got split up and the groups weren't too big.

The walk went for 1 1/2 kilometres with stops and stories at one of the (Anangu) boy's caves, one of the women's caves (although as a male, the ranger wasn't allowed to tell stories at this one), the kitchen cave and finally a gorge with a waterhole.

The stories were very well told, the rock art explained and a very interesting debate about the rock climb. The Anangu people would rather visitors didn't climb anymore so as the land owners and co managers of the park with Parks & Wildlife, they undertake the role of explaining their rationale so that people are informed. There is talk of stopping the climb altogether by 2019. Approximately 40 people have died to date, climbers leave a lot of rubbish behind (both human waste and rubbish waste, which all gets washed down the rock when it next rains) and the climb covers a sacred path which is told in the Mala story.

We felt this reasoning was very well told, that visitors should respect the Anangu people and believe there are plenty of other things to do here that means a visitor doesn't need to climb. I don't think I would ever get tired of looking at the rock from all it's different angles, at the holes in the walls, the sheer cliffs, and of course, the different colours at different times of the day. The true rock colour is actually a dark grey, but the high iron content and water runoff, turns the exposed rocks the reddish brown that makes the rock so attractive.

After the walk, we completed the drive around the base and observed the "holes" in the northern face (above) as we did. Each side has it's own character! We then headed back to the caravan for lunch and then made the 5km trip to the Yulara dump point, which is nowhere near the caravan park and is in fact, in the industrial estate. I could write a book about all the different types and places of dump points. We then took a drive out to the airport to check it out - very civilised. It really is easy for visitors to get here. Such a different experience to some of the other places we have visited on this trip!

This afternoon, we headed back out to Uluru and visited the cultural centre, which explains some of the history and stories as told by the Anangu people. It was well done and we enjoyed the various aspects. Greg even bought a pair of music sticks!

Back to the caravan park for a warming spaghetti bolognaise which was enjoyed by everyone. It got pretty cool tonight so we retired to our respective caravans pretty early.

posted by Tracey @ 10:04 pm 0 comments

Day 46 - Yulara (Uluru and Kata Tjuta)

Ahh, the sleep in was luxurious this morning. Although there was a fair bit of traffic at 5:30am as many headed out to watch the sunrise over Uluru or Kata Tjuta.

We relaxed over breakfast and internet catch ups and headed over to the Yulara Visitor Information Centre and town centre mid morning. Yulara is a resort centre built in 1983 to stop the camping and other accommodation that had sprung up close to the Rock in the '70's and '80's and was destroying the environment. Following the formation of the National Park, all accommodation was relocated to this new town outside the National Park.

We had lunch in the town centre at a cafe that operates an indigenous training program. It was very good. We then headed out to Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), doing the dune walk to view the 36 domes of Kata Tjuta from the east before we drove around the western side and got much better photos!
The Uluru sunset viewing was planned for tonight so we all met back at the caravans and packed our dinner tools as the advice was to arrive at the sunset parking area early to get a good spot. So we were all set up by 4pm and had the percolated coffee and teapot boiling for afternoon tea shortly afterwards. This was followed by drinks and nibblies.
How civilised are we?! We all took it in turns with the binoculars to look at the vegetation growing up the rock, the rock holes and collapses, the water falls when it rains and the path of the climb (although the local Anangu people prefer that visitors don't climb it anymore) as the sun slowly sank behind us.
The colours of the rock changing were quite amazing, and again, photography probably doesn't capture it. Here are a couple of the shots I tried to get (Lisa and Paul were better set up with a tripod!).

Ten year old Harrison had the comment of the night - as the rock got redder he said "it's really starting to look like a rock now"!!!

We finished our steak, sausages and salad and packed up, by which time it was pretty dark. Back to the park to do dishes and relax.

posted by Tracey @ 9:22 pm 0 comments

Day 45 - King's Canyon to Uluru

The alarm clock went off very early this morning, which made it doubly hard to get up as it was quite cool. We had put the third doona on the bed in anticipation of no heating but we actually got warm at one point. I got up and made Greg a cup of tea in bed, my breakfast, packed my walking backpack and was ready for the 10km drive to King's Canyon with Paul and Harrison by 7:30am.

We were on the rim walk before 8am and knew the walk started with a steep ascent, which translated into 500 steps. Oh my goodness, how quickly that becomes difficult! Huffing and puffing our way to the top, with plenty of rest stops for 40+ year old legs (Harrison's much younger legs were coping better!) we were soon up amongst it. It was pretty amazing already, although the early morning shadows made photography somewhat difficult. A couple of kilometres into the 6km walk, we got to the first true part of the canyon edge.
It was absolutely amazing, but I certainly wasn't totally confident about sitting this close to a 100m drop. Paul stood here for his photo - it was as much as I could do to sit while looking at Harry and not downwards!

The walk continued, with several more close to the rim opportunities, a couple of lookouts, and a metal bridge across a crack forming a new canyon that was still many metres down and I couldn't look down as I walked across it!

We then descended some very steep stairs into the "Garden of Eden", complete with plant life, running water and well sheltered. It was quite picturesque too. Back onto the rim, and we arrived at possibly the best viewing spot of the canyon:

While sitting here taking it all in, our mouths dropped in amazement at the sheer stupidity of this girl on a school trip.

Greg, Lisa and Kobi had a relaxing morning in the caravan park, not getting up until it was warm enough outside. Kobi did some craft, Lisa and Greg had morning tea and we were back before they knew it. We all packed up our caravans and had toasted sandwiches for lunch before starting the 300km drive to Uluru. We did fill up with fuel before leaving the resort - at the exorbitant price of $2.33 per litre!!!

Shortly after turning back onto the Lasseter Highway and continuing westward, I was stunned to see a big red rock on the horizon. Convinced it was Uluru, I was quite excited......until Greg worked out it was actually Mount Connor! In hindsight, the sides were a bit straight! However, not much further along the road, the real "rock" revealed itself, followed shortly thereafter by the Olgas.

We arrived at the resort, set up, enjoyed power again - which also meant I could have real coffee for afternoon tea - and settled in. I cooked a stir fry for dinner and now, this very tired body is ready for sleep after a big day's activity.

posted by Tracey @ 10:17 pm 2 comments

Day 44 - Alice Springs to Kings Canyon

Up early to pack up and hit the road for a big day of driving to King's Canyon. It was another very cold morning in Alice Springs and we weren't looking forward to a night without power (translated = night without heaters) in King's Canyon but the two campgrounds out that way were fully booked. We were on the road by 8:45am driving, driving, driving.

We made good time and had turned off the Lasseter Highway by lunchtime so we pulled over at the next rest stop for lunch. A good stretch and yummy bread rolls fortified us for the next 100 kilometres. We stopped at King's Creek Station to see if by chance, any powered sites had become available. Greg and Paul made the comment that with the camels saddled up out the front, two helicopters parked at the driveway, and quad bikes available for hire - "obviously nobody walks around here"!!! No luck so we kept going to King's Canyon Resort. Just after we pulled up, there was a queue of 10 caravans behind us!

We paid for the most expensive piece of red dirt ever and set up in time for afternoon tea in the sun. It was glorious weather. The resort had a sunset viewing platform just up the hill (complete with bar!) so we packed some drinks and nibblies and walked up to it to watch the sun set over the hills that make up the canyon. It was quite beautiful.
Back to the vans for a yummy lamb souvlaki cooked by Lisa. It doesn't seem as cold here as Alice Springs so we sat outside for dinner and made plans for the King's Canyon walk in the morning. Greg and I then wandered over to the bistro to listen to the entertainment, which was alright.

posted by Tracey @ 9:15 pm 2 comments