Saturday, July 12, 2014

Day 50 - Coober Pedy

A lovely lazy morning around the caravans, including pancakes cooked next door and breakfast in the sun. You really feel like you're on holidays at times like this!

Having studied the offerings of Coober Pedy as described by the Visitor Information Centre, we had narrowed down our activities to the Unamoona museum, the Breakaways drive and a visit to a reputable opal shop. We headed straight to the Visitor Information Centre to buy our pass for the Breakaways Drive (through Aboriginal land) - (a whole $2.20 per adult), then to Unamoona. We worked our way through the underground museum, which was very good, until we got to the shop and discovered you couldn't do anymore unless you were on a tour. The timing of this changed our plans so via the bakery for a pie, we met up with Lisa and Paul and headed out to the Breakaways drive. This is a 70km round trip to the north and east of Coober Pedy, through a range of colourful low hills which have broken away from the Stuart Range, hence their name “The Breakaways”.  We stopped at two lookout points which highlighted the open spaces and colourful environment, leaving an impression of the long gone inland sea that our early explorers dreamt of.
 
 

Further along, these white and brown mound are called the “Castle” or “Salt & Pepper” by the white people, but "Two Dogs" by the local aboriginal people.
 

The landscape was truly amazing, like nothing else we have seen. The colours were so different, and the lack of plantlife adds a whole new dimension. Many movies have been filmed out here, especially outer space movies because in places, it does look very like a moonscape. Further along the loop road, we came upon the dog (dingo) fence. This 2m high wire barrier stretches for over 5,300km across three States, to protect the sheep country in the south from the dingo.
 
Back in town, I needed a coffee so we went in search of an underground cafe. We found one that was also a digeridoo shop/gallery and of course, they sold opals as well! We had an excellent cup of coffee, a funny chat with the Yugoslavian man serving who came to Australia in 1974 and has been in Coober Pedy for all bar two days since! He played a digeridoo for us and sold us an opal for me to get set onto a ring I already have.

We then went back to Unamoona for the tour. First we watched a movie about the history of opal, then went on a tour of an undergound house, then into the mine (which is no longer worked, given it is in the middle of town). It was interesting, although elements of it had been covered in last night's tour and perhaps done better. However, unlike in last night's mine, this one still had some veins of opal left. Given we had just purchased one, it was reassuring to see original opal in the ground!
 
I then happened to see an opal charm to suit my bracelet which my darling husband also let me buy. My justification was that the charm is to commemorate this trip and it is my birthstone!

Back to the caravan for a yummy pasta dinner which Lisa cooked and then we had apple and apricot pie - cooked in Lisa's oven with apples all the way from Broadford (grown, cooked and frozen in Broadford (Thanks, Mum!) then transported half way around Australia!). Tomorrow is our last full day with Lisa and family and we have a huge day of driving to Port Augusta.

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